Là où les esprits se reposent

Initially written for the already too long previous post, I decided to separate the two as wanted to write more about my week-end trip to Koyasan. Right after the Summer Cooling Evening on Friday, I decided I will go the origins of the Shingon Buddhist school, namely Koyasan. Located at about 1000m above the sea level, the place is surrounded by 8 mountain, as it should be to reflect the lotus flower, a symbol of Buddhism.

I left my place on Saturday morning as if I would go to work, except I aimed at a more peaceful and resting place south from Osaka, in the Wakayama prefecture.

The city was founded by Kōbō-Daishi (弘法大師) in 818 A.D., it is known as the headquarter of the Shingon (or True Word) school of Buddhism. The place features a lot of temples and pagodas but one of the main interest lies below the ground… in fact the cemetery next to Kōbō-Daishi’s mausoleum is gigantic! The reason is that many people are buried here in the wait of Kōbō-Daishi’s awakening, in the hope to reach the Nirvana. I am not quite sure of people are really buried here but at least, believers buried hair or bone to be somehow here for the awakening. Also, among the tombs many monuments were erected in memory of famous historical persons such as Oda Nobunaga, Uesugi Kenshin, Mitsuhide Akechi and so on. There are probably thousands and thousands of tombs and my kanji reading disability prevent me from knowing if I was taking a picture of Oda Nobunaga’s monument or a probably wealthy guy. Still, the cemetery is surrounded by a pine forest so once you entered it, you really feel like you are somewhere out of the real world, the nature is taking over the man’s buildings. During the day, you can still see the sunlight when dusk is here, there is an eerie atmosphere taking place and it would be perfectly normal to see ghosts or spirits wandering at night… I got bitten by mosquitoes pretty bad when walking through it at dusk but maybe it was just the inhabitants playing hide and seek with me…

Koyasan being 3 hours away from Osaka by train, I decided I would stay for the night here, I mean, not in the cemetery but at one of the many temples offering a place to sleep and 2 meals (not for free of course). As I did not visit everything around here, I thought it would be the best choice anyway. Speaking English does not help to book a room for the night so I had to do with my crappy Japanese and I apologize (as any Japanese would do) for being hard to understand, but we managed to do it.

Of course monks do not eat meat or fish, so the meal is essentially made of vegetables and tofu and it was truly delicious. I recommend to anyone who has the opportunity to stay in shukubo, to do it; monks are really kind and careful persons. Part of the experience is the Morning Prayer which you are expected to attend at 6 in the morning. Normally, you would have to sit in seiza position but it is acceptable if you take a more comfortable position if you are not used to it. Well, let’s try to do it the right way, I was telling myself. I could not feel my legs anymore after 30 minutes, so I had to switch to another position and hopefully I did because the prayer was still going for another 30 minutes. After a good breakfast, it is time to hit the road of temples again, it was a pleasant and replenishing stay though it is a bit commercialized as I ended up with a souvenir from the temple as I signed out.

I am using a slideshow again for a couple of pictures but you can also find all the the pictures for this pilgrimage on the following url

 

| View Show | Create Your Own

 

Le temps perdu

Time flies and many events happened and accumulated in my head but I could never find the time to write it down. So let’s try to catch up as I announced in the previous post, still 3 subjects are a lot for a single post but let’s do it! I just warn you, I am doing it on the fly otherwise I would think too much about it and postpone again.

Starting with the International Manga Museum of Kyoto, well it was a cloudy Sunday and I did not know what to do. Then I remembered that the museum had an exhibition about figurines and it was the last day. No need to think more about it, let’s pack a quick snack and a drink and I was off for Kyoto (1h30 by train). No rain and I was not used to the city subway, so let’s just have a walk, at least I had a map of the city. On my way there, I changed my mind and decided to visit Nijojo first, it closes earlier and at least I could easily spot it (I will tell you later why I did not see the museum first as it was closer from where I was).

Why did I want to visit Nijo Castle anyway? I guess it was because I had the whole afternoon… well Kyoto has lots of temples and monuments to visit… true this was the closest from where I was looking at my map, trying to find the museum. So Nijojo was the residence of the Tokugawa Shoguns, it consists of 2 concentric walls and a moat. Most of the buildings are in wood and I did not realize at first that the noises I thought to be singing birds, was in fact the sound of the cracking wood under my footsteps, it was a funny observation and made the wandering through the castle pleasant. Speaking of that, they recently announced that for safety reasons, they might close the castle to the public as it is becoming weak against earthquakes…

Unfortunately, for the safe of the paintings and other crafts inside the castle (like in many places in Japan) pictures are not allowed, at least inside. The surroundings of the palace are for the gardens and it is a peaceful walk through the trees, ponds and rocks. Climbing the wall give you an excellent overall view of the castle and how vast it is, 275,000 square meters. After 2 hours within the castle walls, I decided to go back tracking the manga museum.

And there it is! But wait… is it not a school? Oh yes it is, that is why I could not find it earlier then. The former Tatsuike elementary school in downtown Kyoto was reborn in November 2006 as the Kyoto International Manga Museum, “a next-generation museum to disseminate manga culture to the world” (in the words of its English brochure). It’s also a nifty place for lolling on the broad swath of real grass fronting the building, English-language comic book in hand, or watching professional kamishibai storytellers weave their narrative magic.

“As museum director Shuzo Ueda explained, “Since Chinese characters, or kanji, are intrinsically pictorial, they logically supported the development of manga, in which you look at the visuals and read the text simultaneously.” He added that today, with the Internet, all written language is becoming more visual, which helps feed growing interest in manga. Kyoto Seika University, which has a Faculty of Manga, operates the museum and its permanent collection of more than 200,000 manga. It also trains manga scholars from Japan and abroad, holds academic seminars, and plans to host an International Manga Summit in 2008. To help offset museum operating costs, Seika students create manga for public or private entities–or even individuals. Yes, for 10,000 yen a page, you can have a manga produced about your life–the latest in vanity portraits. Almost half the museum’s 130,000 visitors have been adults, Ueda said. Twelve percent are foreigners. Visitors to the museum can freely explore the shojo (girls’), shonen (boys’) and seinen (teens and young adults’) comics that line the walls, including a broad selection of foreign manga. You can also try sketching your own manga during weekend workshops, have your likeness drawn by manga artists, or read picture books in an invitingly carpeted children’s library.” (source: Asahi.com)

This was for your information, now my visit of the museum, well in fact as it is stated in the article, it is a library, a huge manga library! You would spend your day reading your favorite manga, sitting wherever you can find a place to sit; on the a couch, a chair, the stairs or simply on the floor, making a hard time for the other visitors but who care as long as you enjoy your reading. Hopefully there is the exhibition on figurines, which was the initial goal of my visit in Kyoto, because I still cannot read manga without spending hours and hours looking for a kanji in my electronic dictionary…

Again you will only have words to trigger your interest in the figurines exhibition as pictures are not allowed here also, not that it would deteriorate the little plastic figurines, but because it infringed copyrights of course. Believe it was a good exhibition with thousands of figurines and for every single visitor, there must be some that would be of interest. From sea or arctic life animal to Gamera, from samurai and historical replicas to 34^th century robots or mecha or maybe maids in underwear or simply basic character from diverse manga, you got to find something here. One of the key figurines was a true size Kenshiro from Hokuto no Ken, quite impressive.

I was never attracted to these small representations of the manga characters but I have to say that they are pretty well made and detailed. By the way, I received a pokeball-like present containing a figurine of a dragon; it is just taking dust at home now…

In addition to the exhibition, there also some activities around the museum such as “draw your manga” workshop or “get your portrait done” by young mangaka, a cyber space where manga and computer come together to explore a new media allowing “animation” but still being a manga. The last interesting fact was the presence of Hagiwara Sanae, a young mangaka, drawing one of her work, though I might not be the designated public. Hey wait! Why is it written in French on the flyers…

        – Bonjour, vous êtes… Sanae Hagiwara?
- Hum… nod.- Vous parlez français ?
- Puzzled face… eeh ? wakaranai…
- Pointing to the flyer. Furansugo wo wakarimasuka ?
- Aaaaaaahhhh! Iie, gomen. Ano… I make friend if you give email.

 

I skip the rest, there is nothing truly interesting. Just to let you know that if the flyers were in French, it is because she went to Paris (France) for the Japan Expo.

Let’s conclude this long post with a quick note on the Tenjin Matsuri in Osaka last week. Gion Matsuri was crowded for sure but Tenjin Matsuri was even more crowded! Well, the parade is made of 3000 people walking through the neighbourhood and then down the river and back in the streets. I arrived around 8pm for the fireworks, but come on, how can you possibly fireworks with all the buildings in the city?! No way, so it was more a “hide & seek” game, running through the streets to find a good spot among the hordes of other people just doing the same. We eventually ended up buying food at stalls and went back home, a bit disappointed. It is supposed to be one the 3 biggest festival in Japan, but truly too crowded, but it was nice to see many people wearing colourful yukata. It was just too bad we missed the day part with the procession.

 

That is all for now but in the meantime several new events have taken place so stay connected!

Next time: (hopefully by the end of the week)
- BBQ and nagashi somen
-Thriller and fireworks
- Pilgrimage at Koyasan

Maru biru

Je sais bien que vous attendez un article sur Tokyo et ça viendra prochainement. En fait, une partie est quand même de Tokyo dans cet article. Lors de la pause repas, mes collègues parlaient d’un bâtiment à Tokyo appelé “maru biru” ou Building rond (ou en forme cylindre), évidemment Osaka possède aussi un tel bâtiment qui a vraiment une forme de tube. Un des collègues donc, voulais comparer avec celui de Toyko (Osaka et Tokyo ont apparemment quelques rivalités…), qu’elle ne fut pas la surprise de mon collègue en découvrant que le bâtiment tokyoïte est tout à fait normal, carré et droit. Probablement une dérive de la langue japonaise qui sait.

Bref, le propos de cet article est donc d’avoir un aperçu de l’architecture moderne japonaise. Vous avez pû voir déjà à 2 reprises l’Umeda Sky Building, voyons voir ce qu’il me reste dans mon album…
Si l’architecture n’a rien de particulier en Suisse (qui sait peut-être le Learning Center à l’EPFL changera un peu le paysage motonone…), au Japon nombreux sont les bâtiments aux allures futuristes et aux formes arrondies. Ils ne se fondent pas toujours bien avec leur environement, mais ils ont l’avatage d’attirer l’oeil et une petite photo par-ci par-là. Le quartier de Roppongi à Tokyo rassemble un petit nombre de structures aux formes non-conventionnelles et essayer de les avoir toutes sur un cliché, donne l’impression que ces monstres de verre, bois et métal vont se rentrer dedans ! Omote Sando aussi vaut le coup d’oeil, centre commercial construit sur l’emplacement d’anciens appartmenents datant de la Seconde Guerre mondiale, comme beaucp de construction bien que haut, il faut aussi compter les nombreux sous-sol… l’avenue sur laquelle se trouve ce complexe est aussi appelé “Les champs Elysées” de Tokyo, de fait de nombreux cafés ou boutiques portent des noms français (probablement choisis aléatoirement dans un dictionnaire…)
De Osaka, je vous propose le centre commercial de Namba Parks, tout juste réouvert pour le mois de mai. En plus de proposer une quantité de magasin pour y faire son shopping sur 5 étages et 2 étages de restaurants, je n’ai pas encore compris je crois comment ne pas me perdre dedans…les allées en forme de vague et les transversales rendent aisées la perte de repère.