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Already 10 days that I am back in Switzerland but I cannot let Japan out of my head. Coming back from a “long” stay abroad is always hard and it proves me that I am not going to stay in Switzerland for a long time. As a matter of fact, this will be the last article on my life in Japan but still, I will add side notes and other comments later because there are still stories to be told.
Last day at work and final presentation… I feel anxious because I have worked hard during the past months but I did not get the results I expected for my research. I bet you do not really care about that but I will just say that I am still working on this project (I asked for it) and it will probably lead me to my next destination… The presentation went pretty well and I was relieved and happy at the end to get acknowledgement from the other team members. I spent the rest of the day packing and cleaning my workspace, offering Swiss chocolates to my colleagues and waiting for theend of the day… for the farewell party, which is also the welcome party for Thomas.
We only knew it was on Friday but they did not care about telling us at what time…As I was just bringing back some books to our library, one of the researcher had an exclamation and started packing too, it was around 6:25 pm. By 6:30 he was ready and asked if we were also ready to leave to catch the 6:35 bus, I knew it would be something like that so I was ready but not the other interns who shut down thair computer in a hurry. Well, I am not too bad at sprinting I guess as we managed to catch the bus.
Remember in May we went to an Okinawan restaurant, to make the cycle complete it should end also in an Okinawan restaurant, plus they have delicious food and alcohol… Before we get too drunk to say something meaningful we talk about Japanese language and how difficult it is to read kanji. To argue how difficult it was even for Japanese I took out one of my “meishi” and hand itto the boss telling him that Japanese could not read that name. The funny thing is that he looked at the address and asked if this guy was working at NAIST, the university next to our lab, and I answered that in fact he was working for NEC. He was surprised he did not know him then so I suggested him to flip the business card and then he understood. That was a big laugh! And I was honored as he asked to keep it saying it was his treasure (just look back at the meaning of the kanji for my name).
Speaking about Japanese language, it was time to make my speech (which took me hours to write and try to make it interesting). I might leave a transcript later but for now trust me, it was not too shabby eventhough the first part was in English I tried to translate most of it in Japanese then.
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And finally came the drinking game… in May one of the manager asked what strong alcohol exists in Switzerland, as we were drinking awamori, to what I replied absinthe. Thanks to a friend who visited me during the Summer I could get a bottle of the “green fairy” (it was from Neuchatel and 53% for the curious). They were a bit intrigued by the process of pouring water slowly on a sugar but they drank it. Sweet and tasty! We got to try also an Okinawan liquor with a sleeping snake inside… tastes like fire and you can really feel the snake taste! We finished the bottle, some even drank it without sugar nor water and figured out it was a bad idea.This was a great party and I was happy it ended up like that.
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Of course it is always sad to say good bye or “sayonara” should I say, but we will meet again once a page of our life has turned. Until then, I wish that NEC C&C Innovation Laboratories succeed in getting closer to build a new world where we will communicate heart to heart, from my point of view I will go on to figure out how we can communicate mind to mind and in 30 years we will lead people to the light we followed during our research.To all the people who passed by and read my articles, I address my thanks. I am not sure if I gave you enough of a glimpse of Japan but at least I tried. I would encourage anyone who has the chance to go to Japan, it is a mind blowing experience and I learnt a lot from those 6 months. This adventure fulfilled one of my dreams and I reallywant to come back so as final worlds:
“Believe in your dreams and make it happen, because dreams really do come true.”
Initially written for the already too long previous post, I decided to separate the two as wanted to write more about my week-end trip to Koyasan. Right after the Summer Cooling Evening on Friday, I decided I will go the origins of the Shingon Buddhist school, namely Koyasan. Located at about 1000m above the sea level, the place is surrounded by 8 mountain, as it should be to reflect the lotus flower, a symbol of Buddhism.
I left my place on Saturday morning as if I would go to work, except I aimed at a more peaceful and resting place south from Osaka, in the Wakayama prefecture.
The city was founded by Kōbō-Daishi (弘法大師) in 818 A.D., it is known as the headquarter of the Shingon (or True Word) school of Buddhism. The place features a lot of temples and pagodas but one of the main interest lies below the ground… in fact the cemetery next to Kōbō-Daishi’s mausoleum is gigantic! The reason is that many people are buried here in the wait of Kōbō-Daishi’s awakening, in the hope to reach the Nirvana. I am not quite sure of people are really buried here but at least, believers buried hair or bone to be somehow here for the awakening. Also, among the tombs many monuments were erected in memory of famous historical persons such as Oda Nobunaga, Uesugi Kenshin, Mitsuhide Akechi and so on. There are probably thousands and thousands of tombs and my kanji reading disability prevent me from knowing if I was taking a picture of Oda Nobunaga’s monument or a probably wealthy guy. Still, the cemetery is surrounded by a pine forest so once you entered it, you really feel like you are somewhere out of the real world, the nature is taking over the man’s buildings. During the day, you can still see the sunlight when dusk is here, there is an eerie atmosphere taking place and it would be perfectly normal to see ghosts or spirits wandering at night… I got bitten by mosquitoes pretty bad when walking through it at dusk but maybe it was just the inhabitants playing hide and seek with me…
Koyasan being 3 hours away from Osaka by train, I decided I would stay for the night here, I mean, not in the cemetery but at one of the many temples offering a place to sleep and 2 meals (not for free of course). As I did not visit everything around here, I thought it would be the best choice anyway. Speaking English does not help to book a room for the night so I had to do with my crappy Japanese and I apologize (as any Japanese would do) for being hard to understand, but we managed to do it.
Of course monks do not eat meat or fish, so the meal is essentially made of vegetables and tofu and it was truly delicious. I recommend to anyone who has the opportunity to stay in shukubo, to do it; monks are really kind and careful persons. Part of the experience is the Morning Prayer which you are expected to attend at 6 in the morning. Normally, you would have to sit in seiza position but it is acceptable if you take a more comfortable position if you are not used to it. Well, let’s try to do it the right way, I was telling myself. I could not feel my legs anymore after 30 minutes, so I had to switch to another position and hopefully I did because the prayer was still going for another 30 minutes. After a good breakfast, it is time to hit the road of temples again, it was a pleasant and replenishing stay though it is a bit commercialized as I ended up with a souvenir from the temple as I signed out.
I am using a slideshow again for a couple of pictures but you can also find all the the pictures for this pilgrimage on the following url
Les Japonais sont de durs travailleurs mais ils savent aussi faire la fête et se décontracter le temps d’un week-end. Si les dernières semaines ont été épuisantes avec des deadlines à tenir pour l’ouverture officielle du laboratoire et la venue de la presse et des officiels, la tension est retombée et il était temps de passer un bon moment sans stress avec les collègues.
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Ainsi, sur proposition d’un collègue, nous avons organisé un BBQ, un dimanche de juillet. Le soleil n’a pas été de la partie et finalement c’est tant mieux, une légère pluie nous a rafraîchi, nous évitant une lourde humidité. En route pour le mont Ikoma, le même mont dont mon logement se situe au pied, mais sur l’autre versant (je suppose). Une batisse en bois perdue en haut, nous offre une belle vue sur Nara, la hutte à pizza est tout aussi perdue la haut et je me demande bien qui vient manger une pizza la-haut…
Un grand foyer en pierre, de quoi faire griller un bon BBQ ! Au menu, saucisses, poulet, porc, boeuf, patates (pas cueillies cette fois), oignons, poivrons, carotte, potiron et maïs, il y a de quoi remplir un régiment ! A peine arrivé, les femmes s’attèlent à la tache, rinçage, épluchage puis découpage des légumes, ces messieurs installeront tables et chaises et sortiront les boissons. Il est amusant de voir les collègues décontractés en dehors du cadre du travail et c’est encore plus amusant de faire la connaissance de la famille de certains membres. L’organisation des Japonais n’est pas un mythe, chacun à sa tache et s’y applique, évidemment en tant qu’internes (étrangers), nous ne savons aps où nous mettre et finalement s’asseoir et la meilleure solution, après tout ce qu’on nous demande c’est de profiter des grillades.
Si le BBQ occupe une majorité des personnes, d’autres se sont faufilées derrière la cabane à la recherche d’un grand bambou creux… oui parce qu’en plus du BBQ, il y a aussi les nagashi somen ! Le principe consiste à faire couler de l’eau dans un bambou creux coupé dans le sens de la longueur et d’y verser des somen qui seront alors emportés par l’eau. Les gourmands qui seront placés de part et d’autre du bambou pourront alors à l’aide de leurs baguettes, se servir des somen, les tremper dans une sauce à base de shoyu et déguster tant que somen il y a. Une expérience inédite et voir la fabrication du dispositif est des plus ludique. Le fait de voir ces chercheurs qui sont toute la journée devant un écran, couper un bambou et bricoler avec application est curieux. Après tout, il faut bien se changer les idées de temps en temps.
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Une autre façon de se changer les idées avec les collègues de travail ? « Summer Cooling Evening » ! une petite fête qui a eu lieu vendredi passé au centre de recherche. Pour une modique somme, chercheurs et familles peuvent se joindre à la soirée composée d’un buffet et de boissons à volonté. La soirée est animée par différentes activités comme une tombola, un loto, différent quizz collectifs ou encore la performance scénique des nouveaux employés… et des internes.
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Evidemment nous sommes toujours les derniers informés et ce n’est que 10 jours avant l’événement qu’on nous propose de faire quelque chose sur scène avec les nouveaux employés. Ces derniers ne sont pas beaucoup plus avancés de toute façon ; ils ont décidé de refaire la chorégraphie de Thriller mais n’ont pas encore maîtrisé la danse. N’ayant pas d’idée sur le moment, nous nous joignons à leur répétition, cela déclenche les fou-rires de certains et nous ne sommes pas convaincu de la faisabilité dans un laps de temps si court pour danser sur Thriller. Qu’à cela ne tienne, Mary, une nouvelle interne qui vient de Stanford, nous propose de nous faire couper les pieds avec une danse traditionelle philippine ; tinikling. Une paire de bambou, 2 danseurs et 2 personnes qui frapperont les bambous en rythme. Oui mais il faut danser sans se faire haper les pattes par les bambous… nous nous sommes entraînés une dizaine d’heures je pense, en sautant des pauses de midi, en restant plus tard que d’habitude au bureau (provocant par la même occasion, des tremblements de terre dûs à nos bonds répétés pour les étages inférieurs) et même chez nous, empéchant apparemment les voisins de trouver le sommeil…
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Au final, aussi bien Thriller que le tinikling sont exécutés avec brio le soir venu, les compliments des collègues sont réconfortants, après toute la peine que nous nous sommes donnés. Par la même occasion, je pense que maintenant tout le centre de recherche sait que les internes dansent le tinikling…
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Une autre anecdote de cette soirée, nous sommes affectés à la distribution du pop-corn… étant donné que les familles sont les bienvenues, il y a aussi des enfants friands de pop-corn ! Comme partout ici, les instructions de la machine à pop-corn est en japonais… mais nous nous en sortons bien jusqu’à ce que nous changions le parfum du pop-corn pour du lait fraise…
- Je te dis qu’il est brûlé
- Non, je ne trouve pas, ça donne un petit goût certes…
- C’est le sucre qui fait ça…
La file d’enfants commence à grandir, ils attendent le pop-corn au lait fraise avec impatience ! Même si le pop-corn a légèrement un goût de brûlé, cela n’empéche pas l’odeur du lait fraise de se répendre et attirer les gourmands ! Après quelques essais, c’est parti ! Tout le monde en veut !
La soirée se terminera par un feu d’artifice suivi de feux du bengale distribués à chacun. Tout le monde s’amuse et passe une bonne soirée.
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C’est tout de même différent de l’atmosphère de travail du quotidien qui avait encore place quelques heures auparavant. Les Japonais aiment s’amuser et quand ils s’amusent, il n’y a plus cette retenue de rigueur dans la monde du travail. Ceci dit, une fois la fête terminée, et c’était aussi valable pour le BBQ, tout le monde y met du sien pour ranger et nettoyer les lieux. D’une efficacité redoutable !
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En prime, vous avez droit à une vidéo du plus grand feu d’artifice (hanabi en japonais) du monde, pas moins de 120′000 feux d’artifices pour 1h15 de plaisir pour les yeux! Bon, j’ai juste pris une minute de vidéo et elle fait 100 méga… Par patriotisme, j’aurai dit que le spectacle était pour le 1er août, fête nationale suisse, mais c’est en réalité pour commémorer la fondation et le fondateur de la ville de Tondabayashi au sud de Osaka.
The busy life of a kaishain is not only made of meetings and reports, in fact there is also a little time for harvest. For those of you who missed the first episode of tamanegi crop, they can catch up with the potatoes crop. Right, we as researchers like to dig deep subjects that matter and sometimes output weird ideas. So like last time, we went to the small field next to the research center and joyfully dig to take out potatoes from the earth. It is sure a lot of fun, especially when everyone is there to get their potatoes, even the big boss.
The big discussion after the crops is “what are we going to do with them?” The most common answer is obviously curry rice (pronounced kare raisu), after 2 months in Japan, it is probably one of the most common and appreciated dish here. And of course my answer is the same as my Japanese colleagues but just mentioning I will do it in the betonamu style.
Back to work, each of us carrying 1,2 or more kilos of potatoes, you get a strange feeling entering our open space as you see many bags of potatoes next to each researcher but hey ! that how it is, the fruits of our hard work. Speaking of hard work, it was not really that yesterday. Everybody was excited for sure but because we were going to watch the fireflies after work (you bet we or they left the office at least 3 hours earlier than they usually do). We all met at the station to get to Nara and except that they were no one around Todaiji, we really looked like a school excursion… taking pictures of the deers and playing with them.
Once we got to the little water and forest place, perfect setting to see fireflies, we waited for a couple of minute, gazing in the dark to be sure we do not miss the first one. Unfortunately we did not see many of them or were I expecting too much, I don’t know. What’s the point in watching fireflies? Well, it is part of Japanese culture, it is relaxing outside the city and you remember your mother telling you that story of fireflies close to a small river and a forest just like that one. Or maybe because it is the boss’ idea and that we are going for drinks after that…
You said drinking, but are we not eating first? Well there will be some food… Like the welcome party one month ago, we went to a Japanese style “restaurant” or izakaya. Food is of course delicious but so are the drinks! And you cannot read the drinks name, you let your colleague choose for you and hopefully till the end of the night, you will have taste enough of them to remember some names for next time…
Anyway, those social parties are really made to make abstract of the hierarchical relationship you have during the day, more or less, and freely chat and joke on any matter. This is during those nights that you discover how fun are your colleagues but don’t get me wrong, tomorrow, you will be at work and forget about what I said tonight.
People think that Japanese cannot stand alcohol very well, the thing is that alcoholic drinks tend to be cheaper or slightly more expensive that the dishes they served in izakaya, so let’s drink! The corollary is that you may get drunk easily then. An interesting point is that those izakaya usually take the last order at 10pm so customers can recover, just enough if needed, to catch the last train. Social analysis of the last train population is something to experience.
Okay, I apologize for not having posted on Monday as some of you wrote me early this week. (s’trop la carotte…). I have been busy with work (really busy this time) and could not get the moods to write something interesting. Now you get served, so far I did not write anything about food and it’s a shame because there is so many things to try and taste here. So many that I do not know what I will begin with… as Sebastien wrote on sushi, I will go on with it. Bon appétit !
One can think that sushi is quite expensive, at least in Europe, and it is even in Japan. BUT there is no comparison in taste. I would say that the sushi I am getting from the supermarket here are equivalent to the ones I had in some restaurants back in Switzerland and in the United States. Now you can get two different types of restaurant here; belt type were sushi are moving along a belt and you pick the one you like – pretty cheap like 100-200 yens the pair, or you get the counter type, slightly more expensive, where you order directly the cook in front of you and he will prepare them in a jiffy. おいしいね ! Right so delicious (even though I am not so sure of which one I tried…), taste is not the only particularity in Japan, you have to count on diversity and as gaijin, we tried everything, more or less. The fun part is to report what we ate to our Japanese colleagues, though we can remember some sushi English name, it has barely a meaning for them as they use Japanese names obviously. Still by describing some of the sushi they could tell us that we ate kazunoko, I am not able to transcribe the taste but the texture was interesting, it was a little hard like plastic but you can bite it easily. And of course we had twice of my favourite one, unagi. I am just totally mad of it, on a side note; we also had unadon this week for lunch. Oh and at the end, they servedus chawanmushi though we did not order it, but as curious as one can be, we taste it for you. Yummy !
You probably guys are getting hungry so we go on! Something funnier, everyday we have lunch at the NEC Kansai Lab cafeteria, which is serving good food. You choose between set A or B; both include miso soup, rice, some vegetables or side dish and the main dish. The latter one can go from tonkatsu to hamburger, salmon to tempura. Not to say that it is really cheap either 520 or 630 yens, but recently I have been eating curry rice and ramen or udon more than I can eat in a row. Those sets described earlier come in a limited number and I do not know whether my colleagues have so much work that they go to lunch late or if it did not ring their mind that they are going to eat curry rice for the third time in a row within one week… still I cannot stand this situation anymore. Hopefully, 2 of our colleagues (freshmen) probably felt the same and start the move to go to lunch a couple of minutes earlier, nicely done.
Oh yeah, by the way, Japanese eat very fast! Some of my earliest reader may remember an article entitled “Eat fast and get lost”, the same situation apply here and I would transcribed it as “ittadakimasu, ike, gochisosama deshita”. They literally eat the set in two bites within 10 to 15 minutes and then back to the workspace. It is not like we were in a hurry and anyway as they will be goofing around for 1 hour or so, waiting for coffee to be done (by one of the two people knowing how to handle the coffee machine) and then sit and talk about anything.
Still caring for some more food? Then let’s try takoyaki and okonomiyaki! The first one is a typical dish from Osaka, which consists of small balls of some kind of dough with octopus in it, usually served with mayonaise, very thinly sliced dried fish and a famous unknow sauce (that sauce goes with everything apparently as I can smell it everywhere). The other dish can be translated as Japanese pancake and depending where you eat it, filling is different. Osaka is know for its okonomiyaki with spaghetti but it also have cabbage, meat, shrimp, octopus, mayonaise, very thinly sliced dried fish and… the unknown sauce!
Though you can buy takoyaki and okonomiyaki almost everywhere on the streets (especially in Dotombori area), it is sometimes interesting to sit at a table and have cooks doing it just in front of you. At least you know what you eat or you try to guess which one is yours…
One more thing, sometimes you are lucky enough and get an English menu or the Japanese one has lots of pictures and you can just point at those to order. But sometimes you are damned hungry and get into some small lovely izakaya… there no English menu, even worse no one understand you (or put in the other way, we do not understand them…) . Well now I know that those izakaya are mainly here for drinking, preferably alcohol and the food they serve is only here to accompany the drinks. Itis pretty expensive and you do not get much to eat before you are drunk. The good thing with Japanese people being drunk, is that they socialize more easily and sometimes turn out to know a little of English to order their favorite dishes…
I hope you enjoyed the meal so just say “gochisosama deshita”
Avant de reprendre un récit sur Tokyo, je vous propose un petit interlude de la vie quotidienne. Vous remarquerez que contrairement à ce qu’on peut imaginer, nous ne travaillons pas en complet-cravate.
Un événement amusant aujourd’hui au NEC Kansai Research Lab, lors de la pause de midi un des chercheurs est arrivé à notre table avec un sac rempli d’oignons. Je trouve la scène étrange et ce dernier d’ajouter, on peut aller ramasser des oignons derrière le terrain de tennis ! Ni une ni deux, mes collègues nous pressent de les suivre (avant que l’heure de pause soit finie) pour avoir notre lot d’oignons aussi.
Effectivement il y a un petit lopin de terre où des oignons ont poussé (et autre chose dont je ne connais pas l’origine… peut-être une autre fois). Chacun se jette alors sur les oignons et en récolte le plus possible dans son sac ! Je me contente de 2 oignons (ils sont bien gros en plus) car je ne sais pas ce que je vais en faire… je me fais rappeler par le jardinier qui m’en donnent 2 de plus !

Il a bien fallu les ramener à la maison et je peux vous dire qu’ils sentent forts ! D’ailleurs avec tous les oignons récoltés par notre labo, il y avait une odeur dans le couloir… ca piquait les yeux. Heureusement je suis rentré tard ce soir et il y avait donc peu de monde dans la métro. J’ai des amis qui viennent pour le week-end, je crois que je vais faire salade d’oignons, soupe à l’oignon et boeuf sauté aux oignons pour ne pas garder l’odeur trop longtemps !




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